SOO N(순): Adj.:Gentle, Soft; Noun: Sprout / by SAEHEE CHO

Grandfather in an American-style diner, in Japan

I have a real thing for slow-braising meat, for sauces that thicken only with hours of coddling, for peeling a kumquat clean, just right.

I turn words in my head, verbs like macerate, caramelize, and temper.  I think of heavy fruit giving over its sugars, of egg yolk going creamy into a sauce, of vanilla bean ribboning loose in batter.

My mother says she feels full from just watching her loved ones eat.


I want to feel full all the time.

Family Picnic

Family Picnic